Melo Villareal
Perut Rumah Nyonya Cuisine: Having Peranakan Dinner in Asia’s Food Capital
Our first day in Penang, Malaysia, was concluded with a wonderful Peranakan dinner at Perut Rumah Nyonya Cuisine, hosted by Penang Global Tourism.
Chinese Jars at Perut Nyonya Cuisine Penang
Penang is a state in Peninsular Malaysia famous for its Peranakan, or Straits Chinese, cuisine, which combines Malay, Chinese, and Thai flavors. Peranakan cuisine is a taste unique to Penang and is highly sought by foodies like me.
Peranakan cuisine, sometimes called Nyonya cuisine, comes from the Peranakan ethnic group, Chinese migrants who settled in Penang, Malacca, Singapore, and Indonesia after marrying local Malaysians. With the foreign settlers came foreign traditions as well, which were eventually absorbed into Malay culture.
We experienced Peranakan cuisine firsthand at Perut Rumah, located in an antique yet well-maintained shophouse in rustic Georgetown. The restaurant was small, divided into several sections, but the overall feel, ambiance, and design (entering the dining area was like stepping into an old Chinese house) were top-class.
We were served Kuih Pie Tee as an appetizer—a thin, crispy pastry tart shell filled with a sweet-and-spicy mixture of thinly sliced vegetables and prawns. I preferred a spicier flavor in the pastry tart, but it did not disappoint me nevertheless.
We also had Otak Otak for an appetizer—a mixture of fish with spices, coconut milk, and egg, steamed in a fragrant banana leaf. I remember a similar dish being served as a bread spread in my travels in Indonesia and Singapore.
For our main dishes, we were served Inchi Kabin, a Nyonya cuisine version of deep-fried chicken marinated in a variety of spices and coconut milk.
We also had Loh Bak, the restaurant’s Five-Spice Pork Roll special, which was very similar to the local kikiam, a traditional street food in Penang served with various Peranakan sauces.
Another dish served, which bore a striking resemblance to local food, was the Hong Bak. Hong Bak is very, very similar to our Pork Adobo. However, the Nyonya braised pork was full of aromatic spices I couldn’t name. Hong Bak is truly a must-try, but nobody can ever beat my hometown’s Pork Adobo!
Speaking of favorites, we were also served Asam Prawn, my new favorite Peranakan dish. The dish was made of tiger prawns cooked with tamarind, sugar, salt, and some spices I can probably find in the markets at home. I will definitely try to cook it at home.
Lastly, we had Jiu Har Char, or Fried Cuttlefish Floss. It’s the most famous local dish in Penang, and I understood why they served it to us last—save the best for last, after all, so they say! The dish consisted of shredded cuttlefish mixed with generous amounts of cabbage, carrots, onions, and mushrooms. Each bite was a wonderful immersion in Peranakan culture.
To tame the flavors frolicking about in our tummies, we were served Lek Tau or Nyonya Green Bean Soup. A lot of people would think that having soup for dessert is odd, but it was a wonderful, light soup that was a perfect tamer for all the flavors we tasted that night. Lek Tau is like a Peranakan version of ginataang monggo, but without the roasted sticky rice.
Lastly, we had Bee Koh Moy, a Peranakan version of the Filipino champorado without the chocolate. Bee Koh Moy is a popular local snack made from black sticky rice, brown sugar, and coconut milk.
Our Peranakan dinner was a wonderful conclusion to our wonderful first day in Penang, Malaysia. I immediately fell asleep the moment we returned to our hotel (due to the fatigue from all the adventures earlier that day), but I will never forget to return to Perut Rumah Nyonya Cuisine again in my future travels. And yes, I definitely recommend it!
How to get to Penang, Malaysia
Philippines AirAsia does not offer direct flights to Penang, but with the airline’s extensive network, you can book connecting flights that will allow you to fly from Manila to Penang and to other international destinations like Bali, New Zealand, and the Maldives. This service can be availed at the price of a single fare, with hassle-free transfers from Kuala Lumpur International Airport 2, as we did on this tour.
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Also Read:
- Penang Travel Guide: Itinerary, Things to do + How to get There and more
- Where to Stay in Penang: Sunway Hotel Georgetown
- Georgetown, Penang: Here Are The Must-Visit Landmarks In The Place
- Visiting Penang? Don’t Miss These 7 Street Arts Of George Town
