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Loving Yangon

The Shwedagon Pagoda

Myanmar: Loving Yangon

Lower your expectations and be surprised. This is the biggest lesson I’ve learned from my trip in Yangon, Myanmar.

Loving Yangon streets in the morning.
Loving Yangon streets in the morning.

Though I did some research before the trip, I still thought that there’s nothing more about the city aside from the pagodas. I was wrong.

I must admit, I fell in love with Yangon. Its majestic pagodas, gold plated stupas, the mix of modern buildings and British colonial buildings, the weather, the food, the bars where you can dance or just chill, its people — everything.

In Southeast Asia, your gateways to Yangon could be Thailand (Bangkok and Chiang Mai), Vietnam (Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh), Cambodia (Phnom Penh and Siem Reap), Kuala Lumpur, and Singapore.

Once you arrived in the airport, make sure to exchange your currencies to Myanmar kyat.

Buy a local SIM card. You’ll never regret it. There are three telco companies in Myanmar: MPT, Ooredoo, and Telenor. I purchased Ooredoo SIM for 6,500 kyats or less than USD5 with 5GB data package consumable for one month and with call and text bundle. Having a local SIM is very useful for you to book Grab or Uber or other transport network vehicles (TNVs). Grab is more popular in Yangon.

You can reserve your TNVs booking once you’re in downtown since there are taxis at fixed rate in the airport. So before getting out of the airport, find the taxi booth inside the airport and book a taxi going to your destination. Taxi rate to downtown is at 10,000 or 11,000 kyats.

If you want a lavish stay in Yangon, the city got well-known hotel brands like Shangri-la (hotel info), Novotel, Melia (hotel info), Pan Pacific (hotel info), and Lotte, among others. Or stay at The Strand, which is one of the most famous hotels in the city built in 1901.

But if you want to experience a stay in a century-old building with clean room, free Burmese breakfast, excellent service, and accommodating staff, book your stay at The SAT Hostel (hostel info) in the center of Chinatown in Yangon.

It’s good to try a place’s public transportation like bus or train. But I suggest that you use Grab when touring around Yangon because it’s more reliable, especially if you’re following an itinerary. Second, the rate is fixed. Getting to one tourist spot to another within downtown Yangon will cost you around 2,000 to 5,000 kyats per trip. Lucky for you if you’re not travelling alone as you can share the expenses.

Girl in Yangon
Girl in Yangon

Pagoda hopping

As they say, you’ve never been to Yangon if you don’t visit the Shwedagon [‘shwe-da-gon] Pagoda.

But before going to Shwedagon Pagoda, visit Botataung [‘bo-ta-tong] Pagoda which enshrines a sacred hair of Buddha. This pagoda has been built over 2,500 years ago.

Entrance fee for Botataung Pagoda is 6,000 kyats.

Gold plated ceiling in Botataung Pagoda.
Gold plated ceiling in Botataung Pagoda.

After Botataung Pagoda, book your TNV to Sule [‘su-le] Pagoda.

Gold plated walls in Botataung Pagoda.
Gold plated walls in Botataung Pagoda.
Golds and gems will welcome you upon entering Botataung Pagoda.
Golds and gems will welcome you upon entering Botataung Pagoda.
Inside Botataung Pagoda
Inside Botataung Pagoda
Entrance gate of Botataung Pagoda
Entrance gate of Botataung Pagoda

Sule Pagoda is also believed to be over 2,000 years old. It also houses a hair of Buddha.

Approaching Sule Pagoda
Approaching Sule Pagoda
The Sule Pagoda
The Sule Pagoda
A closer look at the Sule Pagoda
A closer look at the Sule Pagoda
Inside Sule Pagoda
Inside Sule Pagoda

Entrance fee for Sule Pagoda is 4,000 kyats.

Nearby attractions in Sule Pagoda are Maha Bandoola Park as well as Yangon City Hall and the red High Court Building which are iconic colonial-era buildings in the city.

Walking to Maha Bandoola Park to get a good view of Sule Pagoda, Yangon City Hall, and High Court Building
Walking to Maha Bandoola Park to get a good view of Sule Pagoda, Yangon City Hall, and High Court Building
The Independence Monument at Maha Bandoola Park
The Independence Monument at Maha Bandoola Park
The iconic clock of the British colonial architecture High Court Building
The iconic clock of the British colonial architecture High Court Building
A view of Sule Pagoda and Yangon City Hall from Maha Bandoola Park
A view of Sule Pagoda and Yangon City Hall from Maha Bandoola Park

If you’ve been to Bangkok’s reclining Buddha, Yangon also has a giant reclining Buddha in Chauk Htat Gyi [‘chok-tat-ji] Pagoda.

Upon entering the Chauk Htat Gyi Pagoda, go to the right side towards the feet of Buddha so you can have a good spot for photo opp.
Upon entering the Chauk Htat Gyi Pagoda, go to the right side towards the feet of Buddha so you can have a good spot for photo opp.
Photo opp at the giant reclining Buddha
Photo opp at the giant reclining Photo opp at the giant reclining Buddha
An art inside Chauk Htat Gyi Pagoda telling the story and teachings of Buddha
An art inside Chauk Htat Gyi Pagoda telling the story and teachings of Buddha
A closer look at the reclining Buddha
A closer look at the reclining Buddha
Take a break at Kandawgyi Park. Eat and enjoy this view.
Take a break at Kandawgyi Park. Eat and enjoy this view.
Walk in this this wooden bridge in Kandawgyi Park.
Walk in this this wooden bridge in Kandawgyi Park.
The floating restaurant of Karaweik Palace at the back
The floating restaurant of Karaweik Palace at the back

Take a break in Kandawgyi [‘kan-doh-ji] Park. There are lot of restaurants in Kandawgyi Park where you can have lunch and have a good view of Kandawgyi Lake.

Visit Karaweik Palace in Kandawgyi Park. This is a floating restaurant which also has cultural show. This is open only for dinner.
Visit Karaweik Palace in Kandawgyi Park. This is a floating restaurant which also has cultural show. This is open only for dinner.
Majestic facade of Karaweik Palace
Majestic facade of Karaweik Palace

Save the best for the last — for Shwedagon Pagoda.

The Shwedagon Pagoda
The Shwedagon Pagoda
Pose and smile at the majestic Shwedagon Pagoda
Pose and smile at the majestic Shwedagon Pagoda

It is the most sacred pagoda in Yangon.

Even pagodas in Yangon almost look the same, each has some feature to awe you.

A wooden Buddha inside the Shwedagon Pagoda
A wooden Buddha inside the Shwedagon Pagoda
One of the entrance gate of Shwedagon Pagoda
One of the entrance gate of Shwedagon Pagoda

The gold plated Shwedagon Pagoda is such a majestic view and every design in structures in Shwedagon will show you how truly rich is Myanmar.

The over 2,500-year old pagoda has stupa covered with more than 4,500 diamonds — of which, the largest is a 72 carat diamond.

This tree in Shwedagon Pagoda is still standing after many centuries.
This tree in Shwedagon Pagoda is still standing after many centuries.
A huge pagoda in Shwedagon Pagoda
A huge pagoda in Shwedagon Pagoda

Entrance fee for Shwedagon Pagoda is 10,000 kyats.

Dress code: When entering any pagoda, they require visitors to wear trousers or ankle-length skirts and elbow-length sleeves. Visitors are expected to be barefooted when entering all pagodas.

Beautiful Asian architecture of Shwedagon Pagoda
Beautiful Asian architecture of Shwedagon Pagoda

Before my trip, I read that knee-length skirt or dress will do inside the pagodas, so I was wearing a knee-length dress during my Yangon trip. However, the length of my dress still didn’t pass the pagoda guards, so I was given longyi [‘lon-ji] — a cloth widely worn in Myanmar. So, I got different longyis in my pagoda tour in Yangon! Perfect for photo opps!

Nightlife in Yangon

I underestimated Yangon’s nightlife. So I was really surprised when I discovered these places to enjoy the night with great food, good view of Shwedagon Pagoda, affordable drinks, and where I could dance and have fun, or just chill.

Barbecue night along 19th Street in Yangon’s Chinatown

Sumptuous dinner with Shwedagon Pagoda view in a rooftop bar of Vista Bar at 168 West Shwegondaing Rd.

In Shwedagon Pagoda
In Shwedagon Pagoda
Even the small stupas in Shwedagon Pagoda are gold plated
Even the small stupas in Shwedagon Pagoda are gold plated

Dance and drink at 7 Joint Bar & Grill at the corner of 47th Street and Road of Yangon

Chill at the rooftop of Eclipse Bar & Restaurant in Myanmar Plaza

If you’re thinking to visit Myanmar, you don’t have to hesitate. Go and book that flight!

Emerald-colored roof of the entrance gate of Shwedagon Pagoda
Emerald-colored roof of the entrance gate of Shwedagon Pagoda

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Written by Kris Crismundo

Kris Crismundo is a travel journalist from Meycauayan Bulacan.

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