Melo Villareal
A Brief Stop in Bontoc, Mountain Province
After almost an hour’s drive from the Bay-yo rice terraces along a scenic road, we stopped in Bontoc, a charming commercial town in Mountain Province. As the capital, Bontoc lies in the heart of the Cordillera range. It’s a perfect stopover for visitors traveling from Banaue to Sagada, offering shopping, dining, and museum tours.
Despite Bontoc’s remote location, I was impressed by the quality of its roads. The route consists mostly of sharp, winding zigzags that snake through the mountain terrain. On the journey to Sagada, you’re greeted by sweeping vistas of rice terraces lining the hillsides, clusters of stately pine trees, and lush green forests enveloping the landscape, all painting a vivid image of nature’s beauty.
After arriving at the lively town center, we enjoyed lunch at Tchayapan Restaurant, often cited as one of the best places to eat in Bontoc. We sampled their signature Tchayapan Rice, known for its rich aroma and savory flavors, as well as their famous Pinikpikan with etag meat.
This authentic Mountain Province dish features native chicken prepared in the traditional manner, served with etag—the region’s smoked and salted pork—creating a meal that offers a memorable taste of local culture.
If you’re lucky enough to be in Bontoc, you may spot Etag being sold along the lively streets. This traditional smoked and sun-dried pork ham is heavily salted and deeply flavorful—a true culinary treasure of the region.
Locals often use Etag to add a rich, smoky, and savory note to vegetable dishes or classic soups like Pinikpikan, making any meal uniquely satisfying.
During our trip, we made time to visit the celebrated Bontoc Museum, widely regarded as one of Bontoc’s main attractions. The museum’s exhibits featured a diverse collection of intriguing artifacts and archaeological items, many excavated from within the mysterious Cordillera caves.
As we wandered the displays, we were captivated by the craftsmanship and stories behind each piece, immersing ourselves in the unique heritage and traditions of the Cordillera people.
The museum’s architecture is intentionally designed to reflect the traditional Ifugao house, an elevated structure of hardwood, crowned with a steep, thatched cogon-grass roof. This style helps protect against rain and pests, while also providing insulation.
Simultaneously, the museum integrates elements of the traditional Bontoc house, noted for its pyramid-shaped design, robust hardwood construction, and thick cogon-grass roofing. By blending these distinctive indigenous features, the museum stands as a tribute to the rich cultural heritage of the Cordillera region.
Inside one of the traditional houses, you can find a realistic replica depicting a deceased person in a “death chair,” demonstrating how death rites were conducted in Bontoc in earlier times. When an elderly Bontok individual died, family members would carefully wash and dress the body in special ceremonial clothing.
The deceased was then seated on a sangachil, or death chair, crafted from pine wood. The body would remain in this upright position, surrounded by grieving family members and the community, while rituals were performed to honor the dead and help guide their spirit to the afterlife.
When a person passes away, their body is not embalmed. Instead, the community observes traditional death rites, which frequently include the sacrificial offering of animals. The number and type of animals sacrificed vary according to the deceased’s social standing.
For wealthy or prominent individuals, these rites are extended, lasting five to seven days and featuring multiple rituals and ceremonies. In contrast, for those of lesser means, the observances are more reserved and usually span one to four days.
One of the Museum’s most captivating displays is the lifelike replica of a traditional Bontoc village. Walking among the different styles of houses—each constructed to serve a distinct purpose, such as family living quarters, storage huts, and communal areas—gave me a vivid sense of indigenous Bontoc life.
Reading the detailed descriptions next to each structure deepened my appreciation, turning the entire visit into a rich learning journey.
Bontoc features a mix of modern and traditional houses. The All Saints Mission Elementary School is also a notable attraction in the area.
There are still so many destinations in Bontoc I have yet to explore. I’m planning another trip back to seek out hidden gems—whether it’s discovering awe-inspiring landscapes, experiencing local festivals, or tasting fresh flavors from the thriving food scene.
This small yet vibrant town in Mountain Province has so much to offer, and I’m excited to experience more of its unique charm. Until then, see you soon, Bontoc! 😉
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