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Puerto Princesa City Is Lovelier The Second Time Around

Rediscover Puerto Princesa City in Palawan

The first time I went to Puerto Princesa, Palawan, back in 2012, I was captivated by Mother Nature’s unsullied richness. You read that a lot on the internet and in blogs: captivating views, fascinating destinations, delighting people, breathtaking mountains… We all know what it means, and we can all imagine how it would feel, but going back to Palawan in 2015 to visit its top 3 tourist destinations, Puerto Princesa, El Nido, and Coron, it was then that I found no value in those words.

Underground River in Puerto Princesa Palawan

Underground River in Puerto Princesa, Palawan

Nothing could ever truly describe the grandeur of Mother Nature and the feeling of liberation to witness her in her untarnished form, no words, just a mix of emotions. Our trip consisted of 12 wonderful days, an adventure that left me hungover and lusting, wondering what other beauty I have yet to see in the world. It left me longing and waiting in anticipation for the next opportunity to explore the world and chase sunsets.

Badjao Searfront Restaurant
Badjao Seafront Restaurant

Our vacay was kick-started with lunch at Badjao Seafront Restaurant and the city tour. Last time I was there, my family and I enjoyed dinner at Badjao Seafront, and, seeing it in a different light, I would definitely recommend having lunch here instead of dinner.

Entrance to Badjao Restaurant in Puerto Princesa
Entrance to Badjao Restaurant in Puerto Princesa

Badjao Seafront boasts a picturesque view, and rightly so, as the view was indeed a picture of calm and tranquillity for the tired and overworked. While I had no complaints about the food, I find its popularity stems more from its ambiance and scenic setting than from its dishes.

Seafood Platter at Badjao Restaurant
Seafood Platter at Badjao Restaurant

So to make the most of your trip, dine there while there’s still sunlight so that you can actually enjoy the scenery along with your meal and maybe even a drink or two. If it wasn’t for the fact that we had just gotten there, I probably would’ve had a drink or three.

Puerto Princesa Underground River
Puerto Princesa Subterranean River National Park

We took advantage of our first day and went on the Iwahig Firefly Watching tour directly after our city tour. This was a welcome change of pace, as it took you away from the hustle and bustle of the small city into a quieter, more serene part of town. This tour lasts only about 30 minutes; the trip from the city proper to Iwahig was much longer, but it’s a must in my book. You get on a small paddle boat and are taken into the darkness along the Iwahig River. Once you get over the worry of a crocodile jumping up to get a taste of you or tilting your boat so it can drag you down under to drown and not immediately eating you but saving you later for a midnight snack like the crocodiles do to the wildebeests during the great migration, once you get over that- it’s actually a very calm little tour, unique and one of a kind. You also get to experience the star-studded night sky, undegraded by city lights, to the peaceful sound of the paddle slowly sloshing through the water.

Shellaise Dalisay in Sabang Port
Shellaise Dalisay in Sabang Port

We were accompanied by another very knowledgeable boatman as our tour guide, who used his laser pointer to show us different constellations, including Saturn, Jupiter, and the North Star. Then I noticed the bioluminescent organisms scintillating as our boat’s oars agitated the waters… I thought I’d only get to see that on NatGeo. According to our boatman, luminous planktons and fireflies are one of the ways you can gauge the health of the flora and fauna in a certain region, as these are the first to go if they are in decline. I don’t know if that’s scientifically true or not, but it sounds good to me!

Jump Off point to the Underground River
Jump-off point to the Underground River

Entrance to Puerto Princesa Underground River
Entrance to Puerto Princesa Underground River

Puerto Princesa, the capital of Palawan, is the home of 1 of the New 7 Natural Wonders of the World. It was my second visit to Puerto Princesa Subterranean River National Park for the Underground River tour, but that was no cause for a dull moment. Our boatman, Luis, was expertly knowledgeable and had a great sense of humor, which I enjoyed engaging with as he paddled us through 1.5 kilometers of stalagmite and stalactite formations and back again. Wondering how far it goes? The river is actually 8.2 kilometers long, and according to Wikipedia, the Puerto Princesa Underground River houses one of the largest cave domes in the world, measuring 980 feet above the underground river. Sorry, but you don’t go far enough to witness the majesty of the said cave dome on this tour.

Apparently, though, you can obtain a permit from the local government that allows you to go even further in. The only problem then is finding a boatman willing to paddle that far to take you there. I asked Luis if he was available; he said he’d be happy to come along as long as I’d be the one paddling. LOL.

Dinner at Kalui Restaurant
Dinner at KaLui Restaurant

Aside from the Iwahig River, I didn’t get a chance to dine at the famous Kalui restaurant the last time I was there. It always left me wondering what I had missed, as it came with stellar online reviews and rave recommendations from all the locals I asked. Kalui only serves dinner, does not serve chicken, pork, or beef, is closed on Sundays, and is by reservation, so make sure you plan ahead. Before being seated, you are asked to remove your footwear; everyone in the restaurant, customers and staff alike, walks around barefoot. You go to the bathroom, and you’re still barefoot, but you don’t have your disgusted face on because it’s that clean. Their bathroom could be my accommodation for the night, and you wouldn’t hear me complain.

KaLui Restaurant in Puerto Princesa
KaLui Restaurant in Puerto Princesa

Kalui Restaurant has a Filipino grassroots touch to its décor with native paintings and wooden ornaments on the wall. True to its reputation, Kalui is one of a kind, both in its ambiance and its food. You can be seated at a chair and table, or in one of their more relaxed setups with a rug and pillows on the floor to sit or recline on, and a low table to eat on. It’s pricier than the norm, a tad more compared to Badjao Seafront, but it’s duly justified as the food is fresh and the dishes are delicious. Trying to recall the food we ordered got me thinking about the grilled blue marlin we had, and it has me salivating as I write this.

Tuna Sashimi at KaLui Restaurant
Tuna Sashimi at KaLui Restaurant

I love sashimi, and the sashimi served at Dad’s Kamayan Resto looked pretty fresh to me until my cousin ordered it at Kalui. I have never seen or tasted sashimi that fresh. For a full island experience, we had to order a buko-coconut, which is basically drinking coconut water straight from its shell or whatever it’s supposed to be called. I took it a notch further and ordered a mango shake because, despite the price, I love mango shakes that much.

Beach near the entrance of Underground River
Beach near the entrance of the Underground River

After having to open up my shorts’ button ‘cause I was that full, I texted the driver at Romy’s Place, which was where we had been staying, to come pick us up. The guest house is 30 minutes from the city proper, so when you check in, you have the option to have their driver drop you off and pick you up wherever and whenever you want. Romy’s Place is equipped with basic essentials and added amenities such as free Wi-Fi, hot/cold showers, A/C rooms, and a swimming pool.

Our room had a double bed with a small TV and was very spacious, so spacious in fact, you could probably fit 3 extra single beds in there comfortably. We had the option to check into 1 room and be charged 600 a night; that’s a steal. We were a group of 4, so if you compute that per head, it was dirt cheap. I didn’t think it would be that cheap, considering our rooms had air conditioning. Our trip had a budget, but we decided not to be cheapskates and instead got 2 rooms for 500/night; at this rate, it was still a great deal.

Palawan Underground River Tour
Palawan Underground River Tour

Our tours, except for our city tour, were facilitated by 3B’s Tours and Travels. If you go to them directly, no middleman, ask for discounts. That’s what we did and got a 300/head discount on the Underground River Tour and a 200/head discount on our Firefly Watching tour. Our city tour was with Kuya Buboy, a tricycle driver we met at the airport.

He found out we had no travel plans and offered to give us the city tour for 200/head. Tour agencies and hotels usually charge 600/head for that. He, too, was the hand behind our finding Romy’s Place and 3B’s Travel and Tour agency. Our Kalui reservations and El Nido travel arrangements were also taken care of by Kuya Buboy, so talk about hospitality and traveling cheap.

Puerto Princesa Travel Tour Packages You Should Try

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Written by Shellaise Dalisay

Shellaise Dalisay is a tree hugging online freelancer with a professional license as an RN. A jack of several trades and a make-up fanatic, Shellaise loves to write and blog during her freetime. You can read more from Shellaise as she launches her blog in the coming months.

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