Al P. Manlangit
New Zealand is made up of two major islands – the North Island and the South Island. The former has Auckland and Wellington, while the latter has Christchurch and Queenstown. To get from one to the other, you either fly or take the interisland ferry across the Cook Strait. This is what we did.
The Aratere sailing up the South Island’s turquoise waters. (Photo courtesy of Interislander website)
Touted as one of the most beautiful ferry crossings in the world, it is also one of the most dangerous due to the unpredictably strong tidal currents. And because both shores, separated by about 22 kilometers of water at the narrowest point, are bounded by mountains, the strait acts like a wind tunnel. Now when this wind meets the rough sea, you will have a helluva ride. Well, that’s what I read, so I booked our ferry tickets online with a bit of trepidation.
There are two ferry companies: the one run by Kiwi Rail is called Interislander, and the other is Bluebridge. They both run several trips a day to and fro between Wellington and Picton. I chose the former because their schedule dovetailed pretty well with our arrival from Auckland, and their ferries were bigger. Uh, well, the bigger, the better to handle the rough seas, right? The one-way trip costs NZ$65.00 and takes approximately 3 hours.
And so we arrived just in time for the 2:45PM sailing at the Wellington port terminal, immediately checked in our luggage, which was a breeze, and were given our boarding passes. We waited for about half an hour in the lounge, watching through the glass façade wall as railroad cars were shunted into the bowels of the ferry named Aratere (Maori for “quick path”), before they announced that all passengers were invited to board.
Those with cars drove directly up the ramps to the two decks, where vehicles of all sizes, from small sedans to lumbering 14-wheeler trucks, were parked. Basically, the ferry was a Ro-Ro vessel that took on both vehicles and passengers.
We embarked on Deck 4, and I was surprised by how spacious the place was. There were several seating options you could choose from, ranging from comfortable lounge chairs to panoramic seating at the front. There was also an adequate dining area with wooden-slat benches around tables, and this is where we stayed at first, since we were famished.
We ordered food and drinks in the restaurant, then dined as the ferry slowly pulled away for the 92 km-long journey. Other facilities onboard were a bar, kid’s play area, a quiet family lounge and a cinema. There was also free Wi-Fi, though it was limited to 100MB per person, and the connection was a bit dicey, perhaps due to the weather and sea conditions.
Later, as the wife took a nap, I explored the ship from bow to stern as well as topside, where many passengers (the ferry could take in 600 persons) stayed to sunbathe. It was a beautiful, sunny day and the sailing conditions were perfect.
Wellington and the North Island shoreline slowly receded from view, and we were now in unprotected, open water, but there was none of the rough sea I expected – it was all smooth sailing, though a strong wind blew across the crystal-clear turquoise-blue waters.
I could imagine British explorer Captain James Cook standing on the bow of his ship in 1770 as it plowed through, the first European to sail through it.
Before long, we reached the Marlborough Sounds of the South Island, a winding waterway hemmed in by several beautifully undulating green islands with soaring mountains and deep valleys silhouetted against the clear blue sky.
Some of them used to be whaling stations in days gone by, but now they are playgrounds for outdoor adventurers and wine enthusiasts alike, with vineyards on these islands. Around the waters, there is an abundance of marine life, including seals, penguins, whales, and dolphins. Unfortunately, I didn’t spot any during our crossing.
The ferry slowly zigzagged through a series of waterways before finally reaching the town of Picton, the end of our journey. They were right to say it is one of the great ferry rides in the world, so if you have time, don’t take the plane; instead, take a ferry. For you haven’t seen the best of New Zealand until you’ve crossed the Cook Strait!
Also Read:
- The Adrenaline Junkie’s Guide to New Zealand
- Backpacking in New Zealand: What You Need To Know
- Ski Adventures: New Zealand
- Adventures in Auckland, New Zealand
- Unforgettable Road Trip in New Zealand
