We attended the noontime Mass packed to the rafters.
in Religious Sites, Spain

Europe Visita Iglesia #5: Santiago de Compostela Cathedral in Spain

Visiting seven churches in Europe this Holy Week

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Santiago de Compostela Cathedral in Spain

I never really thought I’d be able to pull it off – biking the 750 km. The Camino pilgrimage route from Pamplona to Santiago de Compostela. Seeing the mountains to climb and the never-ending, twisting ribbon of asphalt roads, as well as the stony dirt tracks where peregrinos walked with the patience of Job, made my heart sink from Day 1.

Saint James at the altar.

Saint James at the altar.

But somehow, with the aid of a Higher Calling, I was able to do it in 12 days, which, for me, was nothing short of a miracle! So, finding myself entering the Plaza Obradoiro right in front of the Santiago de Compostela Cathedral, drenched to the bone under a heavy downpour, made me cry, partly from tiredness and partly from relief at accomplishing what I had set out to do.

The cathedral facade in all its Baroque glory.
The cathedral facade in all its Baroque glory.
Staircase leading up to the entrance.
Staircase leading up to the entrance.
The Pilgrim's Mass which is held daily at noontime.
The Pilgrim’s Mass is held daily at noontime.

The Camino de Santiago leads to the shrine of St. James in the Galician province of northern Spain and starts from various points in Europe, with the most popular route beginning in the town of St. Jean-Pied-de-Port in the foothills of the Pyrenees Mountains at the French border.

The church organ looks like some props in a sci-fi movie.
The church organ looks like some props in a sci-fi movie.
Pilgrims arrive at one of the doors.
Pilgrims arrive at one of the doors.
The marker in the middle of Obraidoro Square.
The marker in the middle of Obraidoro Square.
This is the Golden Jubilee door that is only opened when the July 25 Feast of St. James falls on a Sunday. Pilgrims who pass thru this door get absolution for their sins.
This is the Golden Jubilee door, opened only when the July 25 Feast of St. James falls on a Sunday. Pilgrims who pass through this door get absolution for their sins.

Legend has it that the remains of St. James were carried in a boat to Spain and were buried in what is now the city of Santiago de Compostela. A shepherd saw the burial place under a field of stars (Campo de Estrellas), and when King Alphonso heard of it, he made a pilgrimage to the spot and had the first primitive church built there.

This was in the early 8th century, and soon, people started going there nonstop, growing in popularity over the centuries as thousands upon thousands of pilgrims made their way from different parts of the continent. A book, the Codex Calixtinus (shades of Lonely Planet!), was even published at that time to guide those who wanted to walk the whole route, offering tips on lodgings, food, places of interest along the way, and even scams!

You can pat the saint's head at the back of the altar where everyone queues to ask for his blessings.
You can pat the saint’s head at the back of the altar, where everyone queues to ask for his blessings.
This is the Botafumeiro (Galician for "smoke expeller"), a giant incense metal container that is swung over the people during the Mass from a suspended pulley mechanism in the dome on the roof of the church.
This is the Botafumeiro (Galician for “smoke expeller”), a giant incense container suspended from a pulley mechanism in the dome of the church, swung over the people during the Mass.
Entrance sign to the crypt below.
Entrance sign to the crypt below.
Angels standing on the mantelpiece.
Angels standing on the mantelpiece.

The church was rebuilt several times, but the present Cathedral was constructed starting in 1075 in the Romanesque style, with additional expansion and embellishments in succeeding centuries. The current Baroque facade with its twin spires, however, was built in the 18th century.

The crypt below the altar where the Saint's remains are buried.
The crypt below the altar, where the Saint’s remains are buried.
Opposite the Cathedral on the main square is this Neo-classical city council building.
Opposite the Cathedral on the main square is this Neo-classical city council building.
Note the worn-out marble on the steps going up behind the altar. Imagine how many millions of pilgrims have trod on them over the centuries!
Note the worn-out marble on the steps going up behind the altar. Imagine how many millions of pilgrims have trodden on them over the centuries!
We attended the noontime Mass packed to the rafters.
We attended the noontime Mass packed to the rafters.

A large Square (Obradoiro) serves as a place for pilgrims to gather when they arrive, and you will see people meeting, laughing, crying, singing, and playing music to celebrate the long, hard toil they endured on the way to Santiago.

When I was there the last time, there was an Irish band complete with bagpipes and kilts parading down the square to the cheers of the large crowd who were waiting for the Mass to begin.

The pulley holding the Botafumeiro censer.
The pulley holding the Botafumeiro censer.
Arches above one of the naves.
Arches above one of the naves.
The brass censer stands about 1-1/2 meters and weighs 80 kilos, swinging at a 65 meter arc above the heads of the churchgoers while emitting incense.
The brass censer stands about 1-1/2 meters and weighs 80 kilos, swinging at a 65 meter arc above the heads of the churchgoers while emitting incense.
Mimes standing on Obraidoro Square.
Mimes standing on Obraidoro Square.

Most have walked, some have biked, and others have come on horseback – these are the ways to do the pilgrimage to claim your Compostela or Pilgrim’s Certificate attesting that you have done your duty.

At least you should have walked 100 kms. Or biked 200 kms. as shown on the stamps of your Credencial (Pilgrim’s Passport) that you secure from the place you started from. Then you collect stamps from the churches, hotels, cafes, or ayutamientos along your route.

That's me arriving at the Cathedral after biking the Camino.
That’s me arriving at the Cathedral after biking the Camino.

Every day at 12:00 noon, a Mass is held as a symbol of welcome to the exhausted pilgrims who have arrived. It is the highlight of the whole Camino experience.

Europe Visita Iglesia Series

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About the Author

Al P. Manlangit is a Filipino architect based in Kuwait who loves to travel and take photos whenever he gets the chance. The genres that he explores are landscape, architecture, and street photography, which come in handy wherever he goes. He blogs at designerq8.com, focusing on interesting places he has visited and sharing short stories behind each frame.

Written by Al P. Manlangit

I'm a Filipino architect based in Kuwait who loves to travel everytime I get the chance to do so and shoot pictures. The genres that I explore are landscape, architecture and street photography which come in handy wherever my wandering spirit takes me. My travel/photoblog pretty much shows interesting places I've been to with short stories to tell behind each frame.

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