Melo Villareal
The San Nicolas-Binondo Heritage Tour
Manila, Philippines – On a gloomy afternoon, a small group of travel and food bloggers joined a walking tour led by blogger and historian Bernard Arellano III.
Walking Tour – Binondo
A brief stroll from the iconic Binondo Church leads you to a treasure trove of enchanting vintage houses, each exuding charm and history in this storied district of old Manila. The elegant architecture, with its intricate details and weathered facades, invites you to step back in time and marvel at the stories held within their walls.
Much like the enchanting Crosologo Street in Vigan and the vibrant City of Silay, the San Nicolas district in Binondo boasts what is perhaps the most extensive collection of 19th-century houses in Metro Manila, if not the entire Luzon region. Rich in history and character, this area serves as a living testament to the architectural elegance of the past.
Remarkably, according to historians, San Nicolas stands as one of the rare neighborhoods in Manila that weathered the ravages of World War II, allowing its historic charm and cultural heritage to endure through the years.
It’s no surprise that century-old tiled street signs, such as the one marking the corner of Barcelona and Laverzares, continue to captivate passersby. These enduring relics of the past stand alongside charming residences that have withstood the test of time, like the birthplace of General Antonio Luna, nestled along the picturesque Calle Urbiztondo. The vibrant tiles and well-preserved architecture tell stories of history and heritage, inviting exploration and admiration.
In the charming streets of Madrid, Lara, Elcano, Lavezares, Camba, San Nicolas, Barcelona, and Peñarubia, a treasure trove of historic houses awaits exploration. Among them, don’t miss the impressive Casa Vizantina, elegantly situated at the corner of Madrid and Peñarubia Street. This stunning three-storey “bahay na bato,” constructed in 1890, showcases the exquisite Floral architectural style, with intricate details that reflect a bygone era. Its rich history and beautiful craftsmanship make it a must-see for anyone wandering through this vibrant neighborhood.
According to Carlos Celdran’s blog, this historic house was leased to the Instituto de Manila, which conducted elementary and high school classes within its walls from 1914 to 1919. Following this period, in 1919, the Instituto de Manila relocated to a dedicated building in Sampaloc and eventually expanded into what is now known as The University of Manila. Interestingly, whispers persist that Casa Manila in Intramuros was inspired by the architectural elegance of this residence. If you seek permission, a gracious lady tenant may offer you an enchanting tour, revealing the captivating interiors of Casa Vizantina, rich with stories and history.
It is unfortunate that many Filipino-Chinese homeowners are reluctant to renovate these historic houses, choosing instead to sell the properties or demolish them to make way for new structures such as warehouses or apartment complexes. Several of these old homes have already been designated as abandoned, standing as silent witnesses to a bygone era, while others have succumbed to the ravages of fire, leaving behind only charred remnants of their former grandeur.
If you find yourself with some free time, consider embarking on a delightful food trip to Binondo, renowned for its vibrant culinary offerings. You may also want to indulge in some shopping; just be sure to wander over to San Nicolas. Don’t forget to bring your camera along; the captivating architecture of the area is truly a feast for the eyes. Who knows, these magnificent structures might soon transform into an urban jungle in the coming years, so capture these moments while you can!
Make sure to be courteous enough to ask the people in the neighborhood for permission to take photos.
How to Get There:
This Old Manila district is located on the Western side of North Manila, at the edge of the Pasig River surrounded by the districts of Binondo and Tondo. Take a short walk passing a short bridge in front of the Plaza Lorenzo Ruiz and the Binondo Church.
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