Melo Villareal
Batanes on my Mind
The Philippines’ farthest-flung islands remain some of the least populated, making a Batanes vacation like a dream of a more idyllic past. Batanes is the smallest province in the country, both inland size and population, but its stillnesses, unspoiled nature, incredible coastlines, and friendly Ivatans remain huge in my mind.
For people who enjoy an escape, Batanes is a place that will capture your heart.
Sabtang Island Cliffside
I’ve been fortunate enough to spend plenty of time in the islands, which has allowed me to travel around a bit within Batanes. This quiet province’s history is anything but peaceful, as it’s the most northern part of the Philippines and has seen invasions and occupations from the north.
The local Ivatan people maintained their unique mountain lifestyles from their arrival during the Neolithic Period (4000 years ago) until the Spanish required them to join communities at lower altitudes 18th century. Over the following century, Ivatans, who traveled to Manila and became educated, decided that Spanish rule was not for them, and in 1890 they killed General Fortea and declared Spanish rule to be over.
However, during subsequent wars, invaders often started with Batanes, and the islands saw frequent changes in power. During World War II, the Japanese invaded, and atrocities were certainly committed, as they were in much of the country.
The population is, of course, very mixed today. The Ivatans are still the main demographic community, and the primary languages are Ivatan languages and Itbayaten. The culture is one of the fishermen and farmers, and due to the abundance of food, the people tend to live well.
They are not, however, creating a booming economy. In fact, things move slowly, at a relaxed and reasonable pace. Tourism is definitely regarded as the next wave of economic growth, but if you hurry, you can see Batanes before the character of the island changes.
Today, there are relics of tumultuous history. I especially liked the views from Radar Tukon just outside of Basco and Ruins of Songsong, ruins of a barangay, abandoned in the 50s after a tsunami struck with disastrous effect. Songsong is a bit farther from Basco on a beautiful beach that would be otherwise dreamlike but has a ghostly feel thanks to the roofless, empty homes.
Also, there are very old Spanish limestone bridges, which once served to connect the island inhabitants, creating roadways between villages and modernizing Batanes’ lives.
But it’s easy to fall in love with the natural beauty of these islands. In Batanes, the only distraction is the lack of distraction. Everything feels relatively untouched, from the beaches and forests to incredible opportunities to see migrating birds in large flocks.
It’s always balmy in Batanes. January averages remain around 22C, while July averages hover near 28C. It’s always a good season to visit Batanes, although August is when the islands get the most rain, while April is the driest month.
For visitors looking for a treat, Sabtang Island simply cannot be missed. It has the feel of an undisturbed natural wonder, with incredible endemic species that are happily living the way they’ve lived for who knows how long. My time on Sabtang reminded me of what it’s like to be in an undiscovered place. At the same time, you couldn’t design a more beautiful tiny island. The white sand beaches are interrupted by sharp, seemingly impenetrable canyons dotted by birds whose calls echo the dense greenery.
Mount Iraya offers incredible trekking opportunities. I’ve climbed my share of dormant (and sometimes not-so-dormant) volcanoes, but something about the summit’s remoteness and simultaneous accessibility makes this one of my dream hikes. It’s not exactly huge at 1517m, and from Basco, you can be at the top in just three hours, but the experience is unique, and the fact that not many people have been there can be felt.
Things to do on your Batanes Vacation?
There are plenty of activities for the adventurous, including trailblazing up through the canopy to reach the peak’s bare rock. These and other activities were high points during my trip to Batanes, but altogether, the place’s real value is in the remoteness.
Yes, the weather is perfect. Yes, the islands are like unexplored treasures waiting to be seen. But for my taste, it’s the fact that these dots on the map are really far away from everywhere else. It just feels distant, and to go to a remote and idyllic place is what I want from an adventurous vacation.
With a friendly local population set in their ways, it’s easy to imagine what it was like here hundreds of years ago. It’s also easy to imagine that things will never change. No traffic, no pollution, no crime, and no stress. But Batanes has changed, and it will change more, partly because people like me have discovered it and taken the time to share first-hand impressions of a place that is all too often written off as being ‘in the path of typhoons.’
The Ivatans that remain on the island will soon see more visitors. I hope those visitors can respect and enjoy the pristine nature of Batanes’ islands because we all need a place to escape from time to time. Let’s hope that Batanes remains that place of escape, reflection, and a renewed sense of exploration and adventure.
Places to Stay in Batanes
- Batanes Seaside Lodge & Restaurant (Check Rates)
- Martin’s Inn (Check Rates)
- Amboy’s Hometel (Check Rates
- Dive Batanes Lodge (Check Rates)
- Marfel Lodge (Check Rates)
- More Hotels in Batanes (click here)
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