Melo Villareal
Visiting the Ancient Burial Grounds in Sta Cruz Island, Zamboanga City
After enjoying the cerulean skies, the pink sands, and the translucent blue tides of the Great Santa Cruz Island beach, our tour guide led us to a less lively place on the island… to the burial grounds of Santa Cruz Island. We treaded to the eastern part of the Great Santa Cruz Island, said goodbye to the lively waves, and said hello to the island’s historical past.
Ancient Burial Grounds of Sama Bangingi Tribe
Before the 1970s, when tourists began to flock to the enchanting pink sands and sun-drenched skies of Great Santa Cruz Island, the local communities held a profound respect for its sacred sites, some of which served as burial grounds. These hallowed grounds were used by indigenous tribes, notably the Badjao and the Sama Bangingi, who honored their ancestors in these serene locations. Intrigued by the rich history woven into the fabric of the island, we decided to explore these burial sites, taking our time to absorb their significance. Our journey began at the tranquil burial grounds of the Badjao, where the echoes of tradition whispered through the swaying palms and soft sands.
The Badjao tribe, known for their deep-rooted connection to the sea, traditionally hails from the stunning Sulu group of Islands in the Philippine archipelago, as well as from coastal regions in Mindanao and even parts of Northern Borneo. For generations, they have embraced a maritime lifestyle, thriving in harmony with the ocean’s rhythm and bounty. One captivating aspect of the Badjao’s seaborne culture that particularly fascinates me is their mastery of exquisite small wooden sailing vessels, notably the vibrant vinta. These colorful boats, reminiscent of the lively hues we encountered earlier at the bustling Great Santa Cruz Island, are not just modes of transportation; they symbolize the tribe’s rich heritage and artistry. It’s truly remarkable to reflect on how such intricate cultural traditions sail across different locales, weaving a tapestry of shared maritime history and identity.
The Badjao’s seaborne culture is vividly reflected in their burial grounds, which stand in stark contrast to traditional Roman Catholic cemeteries. The graves of the Badjao are deliberately smaller, exuding an air of intimacy and connection to the sea that defines their existence. Each resting place is adorned with intricately carved wooden boats and ancient-looking sundok—distinct gravestones that evoke a sense of history and heritage. These boats, symbolic relics of the tribe’s profound respect for the ocean, serve as a testament to their way of life, intricately woven into the fabric of their beliefs.
Moreover, the Badjao hold a firm belief in life after death, lending a spiritual significance to these vessels. The wooden boats given as offerings to their departed loved ones symbolize a journey—a means for the deceased to navigate the waters of the afterlife. In this way, the community honors their ancestors, ensuring they can continue to live on by the sea, embraced by the very element that nourished their existence in life.
In addition to the vibrant vinta, I observed another poignant tradition: the family of the deceased often offered some of the departed’s cherished possessions. One particular grave captivated my attention; it was adorned with a collection of old, sun-bleached items—a pack of weathered cigarettes, a threadbare shirt, and a complete set of betel nut chew accessories. This set included aged lime, a palm nut (areca), fragrant buyo, and emerald-green cola leaves, all displaying the passage of time through their worn surfaces. Despite their faded appearance, these heartfelt tributes radiated a warmth that spoke volumes about love and remembrance.
In the tranquil burial ground, various gravestones stood solemnly, each adorned with an array of gifts left by loving families. Some graves were decorated with vibrant bouquets of flowers, while others featured cherished keepsakes, personal mementos, and handwritten notes, each telling a unique story of remembrance. It was said that the families of the departed returned regularly, their hearts heavy yet full of love, to honor their loved ones with additional offerings, ensuring their spirits felt the warmth of their enduring affection.
After offering our heartfelt prayers for the dearly departed Badjao, we made our way to the Sama Bangingi burial ground, located just a few meters away. The air was thick with a sense of reverence as we stepped onto the sacred soil, surrounded by the gentle whispers of the wind and the warm glow of the fading light.
The Sama Bangingi, akin to the Badjao, are traditionally rooted in the stunning Sulu archipelago and the coastal towns of the Zamboanga Peninsula, particularly in its southern and western shores. These seafaring people have forged a life intimately connected to the ocean, relying on the bounty of the sea for their sustenance. Masterful shipbuilders, the Sama Bangingi construct elegant wooden boats known as vintas, characterized by their colorful sails and graceful hulls that glide through the waters.
In addition to their seafaring vessels, they are also adept architects, crafting formidable forts called kuta, which stand as a testament to their ingenuity and resilience. Historically, the Sama Bangingi played a significant role during the Spanish Colonization era, fiercely defending their way of life. It is believed that they were instrumental in resisting the Spanish forces, who sought to impose Christianity among other influences, showcasing their fierce determination to preserve their cultural identity and sovereignty.
In the serene aftermath of war, the Sama Bangingi burial ground rests in tranquil repose, as if suspended in time. The gravestones, weathered by relentless sun and lapping tides, stand as poignant reminders of the vibrant history and rich cultural heritage of the Sama Bangigi and Badjao tribes. Each marker, etched with stories of love and loss, whispers the echoes of those who once thrived in this land.
At present, this sacred site is no longer an active burial ground. A local ordinance issued by the government of Zamboanga City has curbed the addition of new graves, preserving the sanctity of this hallowed space. Remarkably, the last member of the Badjao tribe was laid to rest here in 1974, marking the end of an era and leaving behind a poignant legacy woven into the very fabric of the island’s history.
While we were in the burial ground, our tour guide showed us a tayumtayum, a flower from a shrub that resembles a sea urchin. We learned that when this flower is dropped into the sea during the windy season, it looks like a sea urchin floating in the water.
We left the burial grounds not long after our visit. The ancient site, with its sand, gravestones, and the sunlight-worn tributes, was haunting yet incredibly fascinating. It amazes me to this day how such a long-abandoned burial site reflects the culture of the tribes that once inhabited the area. Great Santa Cruz Island is more than just a beautiful pink sand beach; it is also a treasure trove of history and culture.
There’s so much to explore here, and the Great Santa Cruz Island deserves a second (or maybe a third) visit!
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